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When we first set out to build our high-revving 327ci small-block Chevy for Project Mighty Mouse, oil control wasn’t the flashiest part of the plan. But once we started assembling a package that could spin reliably to 7,500 rpm, we knew it had to be a priority, especially having a windage tray. That meant rethinking everything below the crank centerline – especially when space constraints and mismatched parts nearly derailed the build. Luckily, Moroso had the exact solution we needed.
The Windage Tray Dilemma
At higher RPM, windage becomes a serious concern. For the uninitiated, windage refers to the drag and turbulence created as the crankshaft spins through oil vapor. This internal oil cloud robs horsepower, aerates the oil, increases crankcase pressure, and causes pressure inconsistencies. As engine speed increases, so do the effects of windage. It’s wasted power, and in a performance engine like ours, that’s unacceptable.
Running a windage tray is always a good idea if space allows it; however, situations seeing sustained RPM above 6000 will see the most benefit. – Brett Corriveau, Moroso Product Manager
A proper windage tray acts as a physical barrier between the rotating crankshaft and the splashing oil in the sump. It helps strip oil off the crankshaft, reduces parasitic drag, and allows oil to drain back into the pan more effectively. The result? Freed-up horsepower, cooler oil, and more stable pressure.
It may seem hard to believe that something so simple can help so much, but this windage tray will free up some horsepower for us.
Most bolt-in windage trays for small-block Chevys require some form of modification. Some call for drilling and tapping the crankshaft main cap bolts to install longer studs. Others might fit, but often interfere with rotating assemblies, aftermarket rods, or even oil pumps. We tried a few different options, and none of them worked. Each one either made contact with the rotating assembly or required more clearance than we had.
So we turned to Moroso, who offered a smarter solution, the SBC Pre-80 8.25-inch. Deep T-sump oil pan (P/N 20191), which features a fully integrated louvered windage tray and crank scraper. Designed to work right out of the box, this pan eliminated all the headaches and unknowns. Because it’s built into the pan, there’s no extra hardware, no misalignment, and no interference to worry about. (The pan clears up to a 4.125-inch stroke with most steel connecting rods.)
“Running a windage tray is always a good idea if space allows,” says Brett Corriveau, Moroso’s Product Manager. “However, situations seeing sustained RPMs above 6,000 will see the most benefit. Gains are typically proportional to the stroke of the motor, as a larger rotating assembly can amplify the effects of windage.”
To prove the point, Brett referenced a dyno test done with a 582ci big-block Chevy. In that test, switching from a basic street/strip pan with just a trap door (P/N 20401) to a Comp Eliminator-style steel pan (P/N 21047) with a built-in windage tray, scrapers, and louvered partitions resulted in a 29 horsepower average increase, with peak gains hitting 40 horsepower. Average torque and oil pressure also went up.
While our little 327 isn’t likely to see a 40hp bump, every bit counts. More importantly, it simplified the install and eliminated the guesswork. No trimming, no stacking gaskets, and no worrying whether the crank would slice through an aftermarket tray.
The added oil capacity of the deeper sump also played a role. Moroso has moved away from ultra-deep 10-inch drag pans, focusing instead on smarter oil control and an 8.25-inch depth that adds volume without ground clearance issues. More oil volume means better temperature control, greater oil pressure stability, and longer life for the engine at high RPM.
Choosing The Right Oil Pump
With the decision to use Moroso’s oil pan came another important change. Our previous pump and pickup setup was designed for a 7.5-inch-deep sump. But the new pan has a depth of 8.25 inches, which meant we had to swap to a pump with the correct pickup height.
Enter Moroso’s oil pump and pickup package (P/N 22134). It’s a high-volume pump that comes with a matched pickup specifically designed for use with Moroso pans. The integrated design meant proper pickup-to-pan clearance without the guesswork or need to fabricate a custom pickup.
Our high volume pumps are beneficial for applications with auxiliary components that can increase oil demand, such as oil coolers, accumulators, remote oil filters, etc. – Brett Corriveau, Moroso Product Manager
“Our high volume pumps are beneficial for applications with auxiliary components that can increase oil demand, such as oil coolers, accumulators, remote oil filters, etc.,” says Corriveau. “The taller gear in a high volume pump can require a bit more power to be driven, so that’s something to keep in mind.”
It's always important to make sure the oil pump is fully seated down onto the cap before torquing down. If it's not seated, something is likely to break during the torquing process.
For Project Mighty Mouse, we aren’t running a dry sump or external cooler, but we are planning long highway pulls and aggressive street driving. With RPM climbing past 7,500, we wanted to ensure volume wasn’t an issue. Consistent oiling is what keeps bearings alive, and we’re not taking any chances.
Corriveau also explained the benefits of high-pressure pumps: “High-pressure pumps are beneficial for engines that will be turning higher RPM. A stiffer bypass spring will allow the pump to generate more pressure before bypassing. This will also help combat cavitation.”
While some builds might benefit from a high-pressure configuration, we stuck with high volume. With good bearing clearances, a quality pan, and correct pickup depth, our system should deliver stable pressure at high RPM without overloading the oil filter or creating drag.
Stud Kits And Gaskets Matter Too
We mounted the pump using Moroso’s oil pump stud kit (P/N 38150). It’s a small part, but one that improves assembly confidence. “The stud and nut combo tends to draw down more evenly when tightening versus running a bolt in, and can accommodate different pump castings more easily,” Corriveau told us. Studs help ensure even clamping force, reduce thread wear in the block, and simplify servicing down the road. They also make future teardown and inspection easier, especially when dealing with iron blocks that can wear over time.
We also used Moroso’s oil pan bolt kit (P/N 38551) to button up the installation. Clean hardware and matched fasteners made installation easy, and everything torqued down smoothly.
This is one job that it's okay to have a left over bolt for. Moroso found that one of the bolts is redundant to have. Don't freak out, it's supposed to be like this.
We paired the setup with a one-piece oil pan gasket (P/N 93150), which made installation easier and reduced the chances of leaks. According to Corriveau, one-piece gaskets are ideal where available, though certain big-block applications still require multi-piece setups.
Why It Matters
Oil system upgrades aren’t sexy, but they’re essential. Without proper oil control, even the best bottom-end can fail. Our original plan included parts that didn’t quite fit, and had we forced them to work, we’d be risking everything. Instead, Moroso’s oil pan and oil pump kit gave us a matched system engineered to work together, with built-in performance advantages to boot.
Whether it’s the horsepower gains from reduced windage, the reliability from increased oil capacity, or the peace of mind knowing our pickup is perfectly placed, this was one of the smartest upgrades we’ve made to the car. If you’re building a high-rpm street/strip engine, don’t cut corners on the oiling system. Moroso made sure we didn’t, and Project Mighty Mouse is better off because of it.
